lördag 17 september 2011

Rocky

Once every year, between August and September, the shoreline of Bali - feels the force of nature. Unforgiven waves hit the beaches and the current are harsh. That's why my first day of surfing - yesterday,- it were a "little" bit breathtaking - I'll promise you. The local surfers showing their absence - don't need to be a rocket scientist to now why. Today I went down to the beach seeking for a local surfer - I needed the information for reading the ocean. So I can surf whiteout risking my life and limps - to much anyway. I meet a local surf guru, named "Rocky" a tanned athletic built man in his 40-60'is ( hard to guess the age, trust me it was) old cool "dude" anyway. He sat there by his tribe of "easy going" surfers. All so glad and chilled - just love there attitude, big fat white smiles of pure happiness, among the all. Rocky told me that you mast be crazy or stupid to go out under these conditions - not worth it. Just wait, on Sunday the ocean will be more forgiving. When the surface "hopefully" are mirror like, and nice sets of waves hit the beaches in perfect swells. That's what I'm waiting for. So now it's time for some documentation by camera - instead, resting the body and mind. I also have moved to an cheaper accommodation - third the renting price for the other one, and free breakfast. So now it's real "looseman way of living" for the rest of the trip. Enjoying the journey of endless learning in a breath taking atmosphere. Surfs up dudes :-D