lördag 17 september 2011

Lonely surfer

Notes from Bali, the 20'th of August.

The surroundings was pitch black, real dark, nevertheless,  light from the long colon of oncoming traffic, interrupted the darkness - a long line of scooters, other tiny vehicles and surf cars (minivans). A lot of activity but a peaceful feeling of it all -  anyway. I was one  a long trip(for a scooter) on the countryside of Bali 15 clicks(15 kilometers) north of Kuta beach. Traveled throw small, sleeping villages, when I finally reached Echo beach in the middle of nowhere, a restaurant enlightened the shoreline, perfect place for a short stop. I saw a lonely surfer looking man, eating a meal - looking out, towards the breaks from the 7-14 feet waves on the reef. I took contact, just smiled and introduced myself to the athlete. His name were Mikael from Luxembourg. It was an perfect contact(for my agenda), same feeling as I got with an doctor and athlete in Stockholm - good spirit. He was an triathlete and surfer. Done Kalmar, Ironman, 6 times. Al calm, cool, easy going person. I asked about tips and important things regarding surfing - cause I now less than nothing about reading the ocean, sets of waves, currents, structures of the bottom, reefs and on. Even though I was standing on the second try, I now, this is "the tip of the ice berg" - I'm clueless in surfing. I need to interview the real surfers - not the money profit surf schools, on the beach that take money and push out the customers on there own - without any knowledge of the ocean. I got real good advise from the "dude". Thanked him for the useful information and went back home, on the tortuous small village roads - in the obscure  night. Thinking of the advise a got. When back at  hostel - Arthawan (looseman), wheres my current residency is. I put on my running shoes, and went for a nice 90 min run at the beach, in the company of big waves, hitting on the shoreline, listening of the sound from the city night - a variety of different music, from all partying clubs and restaurants. Thinking of my my next step on this voyage. So now I'm sitting here at an internet cafe. Just sent an email to surf camp Lombok(hoping for a free spot), where they teach you the basics in surfing, so I can travel Europe in the "small" spare time of Medical school - the years to come.
Your sincerely Anders from Kuta - Bali