Sitting here in a small internet cafe in the center of Kuta( great point breaks for surfing in Bali no 4 ranking of the world) between Poppis (Street name) 1 and Poppis 2. Just doing my daily notes on Facebook, cause I can't reach my main blog account (Med school 2011) from this terminal. Sitting here and planing the day to come. Up early to use the high tides - better conditions for surfing - less currents and hopefully better mirror like water and smooth swells. Not as today where the waves were cruel and unforgiving. The instructors warned for surfing even as a beginner in the white waves, nevertheless, I'm stubborn and wanted as much out of the day as possible, surfed anyway, now sitting here with a sore ankle, however, early morning I will start my second day of surfing - as an newbie (apprentice, rookie). It is time to use all information (a lot of it) and try to catch waves, stand on the board, and use it to make left or right turns so I can advance to a smaller board - I guess, it will be some time, days weeks?! I need a lot of practice and to stay calm all the way. Not as cardiovascular training where you push your body to the max - as in intervals for the speed and to manage low level of lactic acid (C3H6O3 - milk acid). So hard focus on the technique and to rest when the boy is to tired - for concentration, not to push it, cause I will manage all my time in Bali, without any injury or in the wore case DEATH - the waves are amazing but harsh. I will bring the camera to the beach some day and catch the monsters on an SD-card - with my small Nikon. Soon it's early morning on the 19'th of August at Kuta beach in Bali. For now it's a good night sleep, and let the cerebral hemisphere (your brain) process all the information of today. Surf up dudes :-D
Your sincerely Anders
Your sincerely Anders
